Journal

Exploring San Miguel de Allende

Recently my wife and I traveled to San Miguel de Allende in the highlands region of central Mexico. Designated a world heritage site by UNESCO in 2008, San Miguel’s historic town center features nostalgic cobblestone roads lined with beautifully preserved 17th and 18th century Spanish colonial architecture. In sunlight, the buildings pop in vibrant hues of yellow, orange, pink and red. It’s old world, romantic, and beautiful.

Man in doorway looking down the street in San Miguel de Allende

Man in doorway looking down the street in San Miguel de Allende

Remarkably, San Miguel has mostly avoided the westernization of its culture and commerce, for outside of one Starbucks I never came across a single chain restaurant or business. Every cantina, restaurant, art gallery and boutique was unique and appeared to be locally owned and operated.

(Left) Me wandering the streets and taking photos, (Right) Incredible food throughout San Miguel, including this sumptuous breakfast

(Left) Me wandering the streets and taking photos, (Right) Incredible food throughout San Miguel, including this sumptuous breakfast

The town center is anchored by the neo-gothic La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, a Catholic church designed by Zeferino Gutierrez, an indigenous bricklayer and self-taught architect who was inspired — rumor has it — by travel postcards of European churches. With its brilliant pink spires towering overhead, this church is both the iconic symbol of San Miguel and its center of activity. By day, the area is abuzz with merchants selling homemade ice cream, ears of roasted corn, balloons, and souvenirs. By night, the music of mariachi bands fills the air as families gather, sing and dance.

(Left) Man of many hats, (Middle) La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, (Right) Woman posing with giant carnival puppets

(Left) Man of many hats, (Middle) La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, (Right) Woman posing with giant carnival puppets

With its mild climate, gorgeous architecture, vibrant arts scene and incredible food, it should come as no surprise that San Miguel has received an influx of retired expats from Canada and the United States. San Miguel has also attracted the attention of travel media, including Travel & Leisure magazine where San Miguel has been voted world’s best, two years running.

(Left) Backside of La Parroquia, (Right) Typical single home in San Miguel

(Left) Backside of La Parroquia, (Right) Typical single home in San Miguel

For those living in North America (like me), San Miguel de Allende gives travelers the charm and old world experience of Europe, but without the long flight, expense, and busloads of tourists. Venture away from the town square and you’ll find block after block of fantastic architecture, quiet cafes, and a casualness to everyday life which feels suspended in time. San Miguel isn’t the most exciting place for younger kids, but for adults who love great food, ambiance, shopping and culture, it’s got it all.

Here’s a collection of some of my favorite photos from the trip.

Todd Dominey